ZAZI VINTAGE – WEAVING ANCESTRAL CULTURES AND CRAFTS IN ONE GARMENT
Dec 10, 2021
The wonderful, colorful world of Zazi Vintage started on a lark, founded by Jeanne de Kroon from her bedroom room in Berlin during her studies in philosophy.
After a brief modeling stint in New York, the young Dutch woman moved to Germany and later, during her travels to India she met Madhu Vaishnav, founder of Saheli Women, an all-female artisan collective based in rural Northern India. They joined forces, spurred by their love for artisanal craft, for nature and by the desire to weave together the stories and cultures of different women through cloth.
They continue to be bonded by the respect for the land, for the thread and the hands that bring to life each unique co-crafted piece, ultimately helping these vulnerable women. The mantra here is to bring into the light an ancient wisdom forged through the ancestral practices related to stitching, embroidery, colors and even to the healing properties of plants.
For her these women are the ultimate “storytellers.” “Brands come up with made-up stories to tell each season but here we have so many genuine and amazing ones, recounted by these women through their fabrics,” says de Kroon. “Similar stories regardless of whether they are on the peaks of Nepal or in the middle of the Amazonian Forest.”
Listening to the tales of artisans, farmers, natural dyers and weavers, de Kroon believes that we as a global community will truly begin to understand what real “sustainability” is. Because each Zazi Vintage piece is unique, to wear and behold forever.
Slowly but surely, de Kroon has carved out a unique niche and global reputation, participating in summits with the likes of Stella McCartney and Missoni, for example, or attending the COP26 Climate Change Conference in Scotland in November.;
Among her many standout pieces is the iconic Suzani coat, crafted with up-cycled vintage “suzanis,” or large, hand-embroidered traditional textiles and Mongolian sheepskin, found in Tajikistan or along the sacred ancient Silk Road, and handwoven with love by her talented artisans.
Needless to say, each piece is one-of-a-kind and ready to be cherished over time. A true statement piece, each Suzani is characterized by vivid embroidery, shaggy collars and Seventies-hued linings.
They are painstakingly crafted by the women whose family traditions in rural Afghanistan go back for centuries.;
Here de Kroon goes into detail about her unique, inspiring and far-sighted project.
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How did you begin?
I grew up amid special silks and embroideries. My mum was a fashion journalist and I started making my clothes at 14 with my own sewing machine. During my travels, I collected pieces of embroidered cloth which helped me discover and embrace the culture of each place.
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What fascinated you the most during these travels?
The first time I traveled to Nepal, for example, I was amazed by the deep knowledge of the women for the natural dyes. One day the river was blue, the next it was pink.
It was an ancestral tradition, for me these women were true fashion super stars that carried out centuries-old traditions. In a tiny village of 1500 inhabitants, I met Madhu Vaishnav, a woman who wanted to support her family and the incredible traditions of the region. She started with 100 dollars and set up a workshop. She believed that the future of sustainability is deeply connected to the idea of community.
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What do all these women have in common?
They inherit a sewing machine and want to re-qualify the local crafts. With Vaishnav, we were so passionate about the same things. We drew our first dress on a napkin and one of the artisans cut out the pattern from an old newspaper, which he gave to the women to craft. It truly was a case of co-creation.
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Please describe some of the most special craftsmanship?
Throughout the world, many stories are similar. Sacred symbols, for example, are common. Then there's the story of two sisters in Mumbai that every morning collect flowers on their way to work and use them in their embroideries.
Lastly, there are the love letters that a mother embroiders on a cloth for her daughter who will wear it on the day of her wedding as a protection and for fertility. These are amazing ancestral practices.
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How many artisans do you work with?
About 650 spread out across five countries - India, Afghanistan, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan and Ghana – and we currently co-create with eight communities that produce around 100 pieces per month.
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What are your plans for Zazi Vintage?
To keep growing step by step and simply to remind people of these beautiful stories and how there is a unique spark in every single stitch. Stitches that tell the story of a lifetime, where each woman is similar to us, often a mother like us. I want to facilitate this vision. For me, the community comes first, then the company.